SEPT/OCT 1998

VOL.3 NO.8

The Blessed Marriage of Oysters and Stout

"Oysters, being almost universal, can be and have been eaten with perhaps a wider variety of beverages than almost any other dish I can think of ... and less disastrously."
       -- M.F.K. Fisher, Consider the Oyster

Given the vast variety of viewpoints that the oyster elicits from its admirers, and the passion with which those opinions are normally expressed, one could argue that no truer words have ever been written about the humble bivalve. Indeed, in my years of oyster appreciation, I have seen the mollusks enjoyed with an impressive array of liquids, both intoxicating and not, and have yet to witness displeasure register on the face of any honest oyster lover, regardless of their tipple.

But for the ultimately sensual, sumptuous enjoyment of an oyster, can there be any accompaniment that compares to the sublime pleasures of a full-bodied, ebony porter or stout?

Well, perhaps, but they are very few in number. Because the marriage of oyster and black beer is indeed a partnership formed in heaven, one in which the silken textures of both mollusk and ale combine to form a harmonious bridge between palate and gullet, and the dry roast of the stout provides the perfect foil to the subtle, salty tang of the oyster. Truly a sublime food experience if ever there was one.

Yet, despite this exquisite gustatory evidence, there are those who claim that the linkage of oysters and stout comes not from any gastronomic imperative but, rather, from a serendipitous surge in the popularity of both aliments in the pubs of London during the early 1800's. Yet while this may well be true historically, except for the fact that the stout was more likely porter, certainly it would have been only a matter of time before the eventual discovery of this blissful union, even allowing for the misleadingly opposite natures of the delicate shellfish and robust stout.

And if the skeptics were right and it was a mere quirk of fate without which this heavenly marriage of tastes might have been left undiscovered, then it was a very fortunate quirk indeed and one for which legions of oyster lovers everywhere should be eternally thankful. And we are.

Beers To Try:

Pub Draught Guinness: While it's true that the nitrogen widget -- a gadget that produces a thick, creamy head when the can is opened and poured -- is now used for a multitude of U.K. ales, Guinness is one of the very few beers in which its presence is a plus. Ebony, enticingly roasty, refreshingly dry and superbly satisfying; Guinness remains the classic dry stout and is particularly pleasing alongside fat, briny oysters.

Murphy's Stout: Another "widgeted" beer that is better for its use, Murphy's is the stout of Cork, Ireland, and is slightly sweeter and certainly more chocolaty than its more famous counterpart, Guinness. Its comparatively malty character gives Murphy's a creamier mouthfeel and so suits it to the plumper and chewier varieties of oysters, although overly salty specimens will bring about odd tastes in the beer.

Pyramid Espresso Stout: Unlike the Double Black Stout of their cross-town Seattle rivals, Red Hook, Pyramid Brewing puts no coffee into their Espresso Stout. But do I detect a slight note of espresso in the body of this brew or is it simply the power of suggestion? Whatever, this is a full-bodied, almost immaculately smooth stout with a roasty beginning and a mildly sweet finish, perfect for very fresh, fleshy and strongly flavourful bivalves.

Samuel Smith Taddy Porter: This revivalist porter from Yorkshire, England is a bit of an anomaly in the brewing world: a porter from pale ale country! Nonetheless, it is a fitting example of the style -- well-balanced, dry and pleasingly roasty -- and one that is very much at home beside mollusks of all sorts including, of course, oysters.

St. Ambroise Oatmeal Stout: Brewed with oats as well as barley malt, Montreal's and arguably Canada's finest stout is deliciously rich, robust and exceptionally creamy. Only oysters of the highest breeding should be enjoyed with a St. Ambroise Oatmeal Stout, as anything less than the fullest and most flavourful bivalves will be lost in the luxurious taste of this fine beer.

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