Stephen Beaumont's World of BeerSeptember2003

 

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Feature Article

Random Reflections at Summer's End - September 2003

September is the traditional end of summer in my part of the world, so I thought that I'd use this month to offer up a few reflections and observations that have come to mind and palate over the course of this past season.

     Whither the Major North American Brewers? -- August ended for me in a flurry of interviews concerning the current position and potential fate of Canada's two biggest breweries, Molson and Labatt. It seems that the business community is unconvinced that all the right buttons are being pushed at the twin behemoths, as also seems to be the case in the United States with the numbers two and three breweries there, Miller and Coors. For my part, I noted that neither craft-brewed beer nor the imports are likely to go away any time soon, and that the big concern of the majors must certainly be to adapt to that new playing field. So far, it would appear that only Anheuser-Busch has been successful in navigating that new territory.

     Hope for Celiacs Who Like Beer -- Over the course of this year, I have received a steadily increasing number of emails from people searching for gluten-free beers for either themselves or friends who cannot digest glutens. (Persons who are gluten-intolerant are known as celiacs.) Finally, there seems to be a few rays of hope for these people, in the form of a nascent company in the US, rumblings about gluten-free, quinoa-based ales in Belgium and a rice and buckwheat ale called La Messagère being brewed in Québec.

     While I haven't heard anything in a disturbingly long time from the American company, Bard's Tale Beer (http://www.bardsbeer.com), and have yet to receive detailed information about the quinoa project of the Proefbrouwerij in Belgium, I have had an encounter with La Messagère. The product of the innovative brewery Les Bières de la Nouvelle France (Beers of New France), La Messagère is a very light-coloured ale with a somewhat medicinal and faintly spicy aroma and a light, thin body that is, again, only faintly spicy, with a few hoppy and fewer flowery notes, and appley fruit in the second half. While I'd love to report that this is a flavourful ale for celiacs and non-celiacs alike, I'm afraid that instead I have to say I was disappointed by its thinness and lack of overall character.

     And on the Cocktail Front -- One trend that seems to be shaping up in North America is a return to traditional cocktails like the sazerac, sidecar and manhattan, ones which emphasize the flavour of their component spirits rather than the sweetness of exotic fruit juices. They may not yet be elbowing aside those sugar-rich faux-martinis that have become so ubiquitous in recent years, but at least they seem to be on the move.

     Back to the Majors -- One beer trend that shows no signs of easing up any time soon is the promotion of major brands through devices that have nothing at all to do with the beer. For example, the big selling point for Labatt Blue this summer was a new case which sits in the fridge and allows the cans to roll down and be dispensed one at a time. Excuse me, but hasn't soda been sold in cases like that for several years already? And isn't selling beer based upon its packaging a tacit admission that pretty much all major label brands tastes the same?

     And What Is It About Beer Anyway? -- Yet again this summer, I was struck by the bizarre attitudes North Americans have towards beer. Unless there's a celebration afoot or it's the end of a long and hard day or a night out at the conclusion of the week, having a can of cola or an overpriced bottle of filtered water is almost always considered more socially acceptable than is enjoying a bottle or pint of beer. Yet the soda contains little more than water and sugar or some artificial sweetener, plus perhaps caffeine, whereas the (unpasteurized) beer offers vitamins and other nutritional content, in a beverage with roughly the same calorie count. Of course, beer also has alcohol, a measly 5% or less on average. And for that sin, we demonize it.

     As I mentioned at the outset, bizarre!

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