There is a website I visit from time to time called The Bar Towel. To most of the readers of World of Beer, it will hold little to no interest, seeing as it's a beer appreciation site devoted almost exclusively to the geographical region immediately surrounding my home, or in other words, the Greater Toronto Area. But from time to time, the 'Forums' section of the site raises an item of particular interest, and as you might have guessed, this is one of those times.
A recent thread of discussion questioned whether it was nobler to encourage the promotion of a local brewery, even if such brewery's fare might be considered rather pedestrian by craft brewing standards, or to ignore the clarion call of 'Drink Local' and instead support more characterful beers brewed further afield. On one side of the debate was the laudable if possibly naïve suggestion that the success of even a mediocre local brewery might spur the development of other, better operations, while the contrary position took the approach that only beers of character were worthy of support, regardless of brewery size or geographical position. To the supporters of the latter view, a craft brewed beer with a mainstream taste was no better than a mainstream brew mass-produced by the mega-brewers.
While I followed the dialogue with interest and enjoyed the intelligent cut-and-thrust of the debate, I knew where I stood on the subject even before the discussion began. When it comes to matters of taste, I stand by my palate, pure and simple.
Make no mistake, I am a political animal of the worst (or best?) sort, and in general, I carry no torch for large corporations. If I am considering two products of equal quality and one is made by a massive multinational while the other is prduced up the street, I'll pick the local option nineteen times out of twenty. But when it comes to my taste buds, I am steadfastly apolitical. I recognize that I have only so many taste experiences left in my life and I want as many as possible to be memorable ones, so the lone prejudice I hold when it comes to food and drink is that it has to taste good. At the very least, even if the flavour is not to my personal palate, it has to be interesting. Otherwise, local or not, count me out.
Case in point is Pilsner Urquell, a beer produced in very large qualtities a long distance away by one of the largest brewing companies in the world, SAB Miller. Yet despite the fact that it is anything but 'local' or 'craft brewed,' when I go pilsner shopping, Pilsner Urquell quite frequently ends up in my basket, often alongside another very fine, Bohemian-style lager, King Pilsner, which is brewed about a 25 minute drive away from my home. I buy both of these beers irrespective of their origins. I buy them because they taste good.
In that same vein, I no longer buy Guinness when I go hunting for stouts, not because it is made by Diagio, one of the largest drinks companies in the world, but because to my palate, it no longer tastes as it did when I used to enjoy it. (As an aside, or digression, when I offered this opinion numerous times over the course of a one week visit to Ireland a few years ago, I received startling few rebukes, despite the fact that many of those with whom I was speaking were supping pints of the stuff.) And conversely, if Anheuser-Busch or Interbrew suddenly started producing beers boasting the robust flavour and character of a Westmalle Tripel or Harviestoun Ptarmigan or Schneider Weisse, then I would most certainly become their customer, at least from time to time.
Finally, to offer one other perspective on the debate, as a partner in a new restaurant and bar -- the temporary website of which, I might add, may be found on the Bar Towel at www.bartowel.com/beerbistro -- I feel that patronage given to a local business simply because it's local could be construed as, well, patronizing. While customers are obviously always welcome, I don't expect people to come to beerbistro just because it's locally-owned and not part of a massive restaurant chain. I expect them to come for the excellence in food and drink I believe we offer.
We're very interested in your news, notes, comments and questions, so please feel free to contact SBWoB by clicking on the link below. Or you can add your comments when you sign up for the World of Beer Update, a mid-month e-mail newsletter that brings even more of the world of beer to your computer.