It will come as a surprise to no one, I'm sure, when I observe that we live in an advertising age. These days, it seems like ads inhabit virtually every square centimetre of daily life, from the televisions now installed in many office tower elevators to the very stairs I climb to exit the Toronto subway. And no small part of this advertising landscape is taken up by beer.
I've been following beer ads with particular interest this past summer, watching them become more and more vacuous and irrelevant as the months pass. In the process, I've compiled a list of what I call "the empty words of beer," those mostly meaningless words and phrases that big beer companies use in their advertising to avoid talking about how their brands actually taste. Their definitions, as far as I can deduce, speak volumes about the products being sold, even as they paradoxically say nothing. Like the following few prime examples:
Drinkable - This is one of my personal faves, and apparently it's also pretty big with the major brewers, since they almost all seem to use it. For mass market brands, it's supposed to be something good, as in "It's a very drinkable beer that goes down easy." But what's the alternative? Acid that scalds your throat when you swallow? The last time I checked, pretty much every liquid on sale at my local supermarket was drinkable, and I strongly suspect that those which are not would have very short life spans as commercial products. According to my dictionary, if something can be swallowed, it's drinkable, which puts that "very drinkable beer" on a par with, say, water, Kool-Aid and Dr. Pepper.
Cold - Will someone please tell me when packaged beer started to have control over its own temperature? Because that's the impression I'm left with after reading the summer's crop of beer billboards, each claiming that this beer was colder than that one. I'm sorry, but until someone comes out with a self-chilling can that automatically reduces the temperature of its contents to one one-hundredth of a degree above freezing, I'm afraid that I will continue to believe that the temperature of a can or bottle of beer is limited to that of the refrigerator or cooler in which it is stored.
Smooth - Please see 'Drinkable."
Crisp - Okay, fair dues here. At least 'crisp' is a legitimate beer word, one which I will readily admit to using to describe the difference between ales (fruity, rounded) and lagers (crisp, more linear in taste profile). But the majors have used it in such a way as to render it meaningless, with just about every major brewery lager on the market having been at one time or another described as "crisp." Of course, what they're really saying, I suspect, is that if you chill the beer down to a cold enough temperature, it will taste much like water and thus be very "crisp" and refreshing.
Clean - As opposed to what? Dirty? Curiously, this word is usually used in concert with 'crisp,' which makes me think only of the old 7UP ads boasting that the soft drink was "crisp and clean and no caffeine." This is what the big breweries want, for us to think of soda pop when the name of their beer is mentioned?
Refreshing - This is a big one, a word that I believe every large scale brewery on the face of the planet wants associated with their beer. The problem is that as beer becomes more sweet, it also becomes less purely refreshing, and nearly all of the big name brands of lagers brewed world-wide have for years been getting sweeter and sweeter. It is for this reason that all of the big breweries now want us to drink their beer at ice cold temperatures, since that's the only way a sweet beverage has a chance of being considered refreshing. If you don't believe me, try knocking back a room temperature bottle of cola the next time you're really thirsty and see how refreshing you find that layer of sugar that sits on your tongue. Then try the same trick with a mainstream lager.
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