Ah, once again the season of list-making is upon us. From the last week on December through the first two weeks of January, the average citizen of the world will be besieged by dozens if not hundreds of magazine and newspaper columns and television specials itemizing the 'Best of…" "Worst of…" and "Gooiest of 2004." (Okay, maybe not the "Gooiest of…," but it had you wondering, didn't it?)
In keeping with this joyous January tradition, World of Beer presents not one, but two lists: Our Top Five Beer Experiences of 2004 and The Five Things We Most Want to See in Beer in 2005!
Tops in Beer in 2004
On March 5, 2004, in the little Belgian town of Eizeringen, I attended De Nacht van de Grote Dorst, or The Night of Large Thirst, a truly remarkable festival of lambics put together by the proprietors of the town's central café, In de Verzekering tegen de Grote Dorst, the name of which roughly translates to "Insurance Against the Event of Large Thirst." Even without the large contingent of lambic enthusiasts from the United States, Canada, England and elsewhere, the tent and café still would have been packed to the brim, and the incredible selection of beers would have impressed just as much. They're taking a pass on the fest this year, but look for its revival in 2006.
Also in the spring, I hosted a stouts-and-porters-themed dinner at Monk's Café in Philadelphia and discovered my beer and food pairing of the year: vintage 1993 Courage Imperial Russian Stout and stilton from Colston-Bassett. If I close my eyes and concentrate, I can almost taste it still.
During the summer, inspired by an exchange noted on the Belgian beer discussion board, the Burgundian Babble Belt (www.babblebelt.com), I experimented with blending Imperial stout and port and came up with the Any Port in a Storm -- 12 ounces of Victory Storm King Imperial Stout mixed with 2 ounces of Taylor Fladgate Late Bottle Vintage Port. It may have been conceived as a hot weather nightcap, but this incredibly complex cocktail is equally enjoyable as a winter warmer.
Towards the end of the summer, I made my way back to the Great British Beer Festival after far too lengthy an absence and was once again terrifically impressed with the quality of this fine event. Highlights were many, lowlights confined mainly to the weather -- 2004 will long be remembered as the year it rained indoors at the GBBF, I suspect -- and once again, the experience reaffirmed my faith in the glory of cask-conditioned ale.
And on a more general note, I shan't soon forget my visits this year to the wonderful brewpubs of Montréal -- l'Amère à Boire, Brutopia, le Réservoir, Cheval Blanc, le Sergent Recruteur and especially Dieu du Ciel! Truly this great city is North America's unsung oasis of brewing.
Looking Forward to 2005
Beer cuisine and more beer cuisine! Putting aside for a moment my involvement in the restaurant -- I'm a partner and the designated 'beer guy' -- I think what is happening at beerbistro in Toronto constitutes some of the most exciting gastronomic innovation I've seen for some time. Foams and culinary trompe l'oeilles may set the foodie world on fire at Spain's super-hot El Bulli restaurant, but give me Cantillon sourdough, Belgian ale beef burgers, pilsner 'vinegared' sushi rice and ale-cured bacon any day. Now, that's a gastro-trend that deserves following!
Hoppy ales are fine and dandy and, indeed, frequently wonderful, but this year I hope to see at least some American brewers turning their attentions to the malty side of the equation. After all, there's more than just mouth-drying bitterness to great beer, be it ale or lager. There's also sumptuous, mouth-filling and comforting malt.
On the home front -- my home, that is -- I'd love to see Canadian brewers outside of Québec better explore the experimental side of beer. So far, there exists only a handful of breweries in the Anglo part of the nation willing to take beer beyond the pale (ale) -- step forward both Storm Brewings, Scotch Irish, Bushwakker, Crannòg, Mill Street and one or two others. It would be nice to see some others follow their lead, even if only on a seasonal basis.
In my second home, Belgium, I hope to see a domestic greater appreciation of the small, artisanal breweries that dot the land from Arlon to Oostende. And perhaps if InBev will taper back their draconian ways, this may actually come to pass. (Or perhaps it will occur specifically because of InBev, née Interbrew, as subtly suggested by Tim Webb in a late 2004 edition of 'What's Brewing' and commented upon in a recent World of Beer Update.)
And finally, one of things I most like to do is discover: new foods, new beers, new places, new events, new experiences. And as I have come to realize of late, that's also something I did far too little of in 2004, particularly during the year's second half. So my last wish for the year ahead is to return to my rambling ways and visit more breweries, explore more bars and cafes and pubs, dine at more new restaurants, attend more festivals and generally more greatly expand my personal world of beer. I hope to see you along the way!
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