Over the past year or so, maybe a bit longer, I have on occasion taken time out from writing about beer in this space to pay homage to the cocktail, and one of those times has once again arrived. My inspiration this time is a visit recently made to Pegu, a phenomenal cocktail bar located in New York City’s SoHo district.
Founded and helmed by Audrey Saunders, who I am reliably told cut her chops alongside cocktail legend Dale DeGroff, Pegu is nothing less than a shrine to cocktail creativity. As their website proclaims, they start each and every day at the bar “squeezing fresh lemon, lime, orange and grapefruit juices by hand” and “crafting (their) own infusions, tinctures, flavored syrups and ginger beer.” They then use those ingredients, along with spirits of unusually high quality, to create cocktails the both elevate and add a new dimension to the craft.
Each Pegu creation is sold for a slightly intimidating $12, but worth every penny. This is less what I have always thought is rather flightily called “mixology” and more artistry, with ingredients combined in ways that both highlight their flavours and create a whole that is far greater than the sum of their already impressive parts. Truly, Pegu is what people like DeGroff, Gary Regan and Ted Haigh are talking about when they extol the potential of the cocktail as both libation and experience, enjoyable both pre and post meal, and as an accompaniment to food. In fact, Saunders acknowledges this last possibility in her short and quirky bar food menu, offering cocktail pairings for each item.
At this point, you’re probably expecting me to offer up some of Pegu’s cocktail chemistry as illustrations of my point, but I’m not going to do that. Because even if I had taken copious notes during my stay – which I did not, as I was enjoying myself too much to spend time trying to dissect Saunders’ recipes – I would be only guessing at the precise recipes and combinations, and likely leading you down the garden path to a point where you would try one at home and, inevitably, be disappointed. Instead, I’ll only tantalize with such names and notes as: a real rye whiskey-based Whiskey Smash, which kicks the hell out of any mint julep; a MarTEAni, infused with Earl Grey tea and made deliciously frothy through the addition of an egg white; and the sweet-sour-bitter Pegu Club Cocktail, obviously a signature drink and an excellent one, at that.
If you can’t make it to Pegu’s West Broadway and Houston Street location yourself, draw inspiration from their website at www.peguclub.com and find a similarly styled bar near you. Or pick up a book by any of the above-named cocktail advocates and start creating at home. It’s more difficult than opening a beer, true, but also a whole new and equally exciting experience.
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