Why Can't Somebody Explain this Beer to Me? - October 2006
I spent yesterday in a classroom. Not just any classroom, mind you, but one in the School of Hospitality and Tourism at Toronto's George Brown College, and rather than being in the student's chair, I was the one at the front of the class.
What put me there was beer, but curiously enough, the reason my students were listening to me was wine. Because, you see, the class I was teaching was a part of a course for prospective sommeliers, during which they will spend countless hours and days studying the complexities of the world of wine and a mere morning and afternoon learning everything they can about beer. If that seems to be a bit out of proportion to you, well, join the club.
I'm not a stupid man, or at least I don't think I am, and I recognize that the demand for information about beer is unlikely to ever equal that for wine. But I am also aware of two very important facts: a) That beer is a subject every bit as complex and finely nuanced as wine; and b) That an ever-increasing number of fine dining restaurants are expanding their list of beer offerings to previously unimagined degrees. Put those two things together and the single day these would-be sommeliers spend on beer - scarcely more than half a day, in the case of some who left early - would seem to be very much on the short side.
So the question then arises: How much is enough? What do I want my server or bartender or sommelier to know about the ales and lagers they have on offer? Well, for starters, how about the following?
1) When I ask where a beer is from, I don't want to just know if it's domestic or imported, but also what brewery produces it, if said brewery is large, small, medium-sized or a contract brewing operation, and even, when relevant, if it's known for a specific beer or beer style.
2) When I ask what a beer tastes like, I'd like more than "bitter" or "sweet." After all, a sommelier wouldn't explain away an expensive bottle of Californian Cabernet with "it's a dry red," so why should I expect any less information about a Belgian ale? I'm not after an essay, but some basic descriptives would be nice.
3) If, as all too often happens, the beer list contains scant information, I'd like the server or sommelier to warn me before I accidentally order a sweet, 9% alcohol spiced ale as an aperitif. As a dedicated professional, they know what attributes are present in an appropriate aperitif wine or cocktail, so please carry those over to the beer selection.
4) When I'm ordering a meal in a decent restaurant in a part of the world where I may not be familiar with the local beers, I'd appreciate a little help with choosing a beer that will partner well with the dish I've selected. Again, it's guidance any diner could reasonably expect with wine, and so when beer is chosen instead, the same knowledge should be made available.
There, that's all I ask. In the end, it's not much more than some basic knowledge about what's available on an establishment's menu and, I think, hardly an unreasonable request. In fact, when you get down to it, it's really just good business sense.
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