Stephen Beaumont's World of Beer
July 1997 --- Vol.2 No.7
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An unapologetically opinionated view of what's brewing
across the continent and around the globe.

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Brewpub Cookbook Stephen Beaumont's Brewpub Cookbook
A Taste for Beer A Taste For Beer
Great Canadian Beer Guide Great Canadian Beer Guide
A World of Beer A World of Beer

Feature Articles

For July and August (and a bit of September), SBWoB is on the road in Europe. This first instalment will take you with me and Christine and my notebook computer, affectionately known as "The Beast," to the Paris airport, down to Provence on the TGV (the high-speed train of France), across to Hendaye in Basque country, through to Lisbon and further south into the Portuguese Algarve. I know, it's a rough job, but somebody has to do it!


Columns



On the Road: Paris to Hendaye

Our trek began with a morning arrival into the Paris airport and a fairly swift transfer to the train, bound south towards Avignon. So swift was our change of transport, in fact, that Christine and I didn't even have time for a "Welcome to France" bottle of Kronenbourg 1664 in the airport!

We rectified that oversight on the train, however, and our two shared cans of what is arguably France's best commercial (ie: big brewery) beer tasted mighty fine. Of course, we were absolutely parched at the time, and I was later reminded (in more reasoned circumstances) of the fact that 1664 is actually only a small measure above Heineken in terms of hoppiness, crispness and character.

The only real surprise that was in store for us in southern France was the appearance of Jenlain in 500ml cans. Despite my misgivings about the whole thing, I bought a couple to see how they fared in comparison to my taste-memory of the 750ml bottle, and found that they were not at all what I expected. The complexity that comes from the bottle-conditioning was gone, and the canned Jenlain lacked the vibrancy and vitality of the larger-format product. But, in retrospect, I suppose that was to be expected.

(Another surprise, which I almost forgot, was the discovery of the Québec beer, Maudite, in the tiny town of Apt, about a half-hour's drive from Avignon. I bought one, but mainly to offer a taste to my uncle with whom we were staying, and who thinks of beer as all being more or less the same. For the record, he was impressed.)

From Provence, we took the train to Hendaye, a French west coast beach resort on the border with Spain. There, too, few beer surprises awaited -- so few, in fact, that I was left with the distinct impression that the Basques drink much less beer than even the French. The wine was good, however, and the unique Basque cuisine was a pleasant diversion from both the French and Spanish traditions.

As enjoyable as it was, our stay in Hendaye was a short one. After one night and a day, we were off on the overnight train to Lisbon...


To link to more articles from this month's World of Beer go back to the top of the page.

Coming Next Month

Coming in August

Our travels will be taking us through Spain, where we'll be checking out some Spanish tapas bars that serve Belgian beer (!), back through France, where we'll sample the great cuisine of Lyon, through French Flanders and on into that mecca of beer, Belgium. Please join me.

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